Newsletter 18th November 2019


The Roaches Meet

After arriving at the Hut I received a phone call from Otto. Confused, he told me he didn’t recognise anyone in the hut. Then he spotted a small child jumping on one of the beds. “Yeah...” I replied, “Drive down the wet dirt road for half mile or so, I’m in the middle of getting Joe unstuck.” 

With the forecast set for early morning dry weather, Justine and I decide for a 7:30 wake up to make the most of the dry morning. After announcing this to the hut the drinking commenced and didn’t end until 5am. Just after I decided to sleep in my car Otto followed: “I think you escaped at the right time mate, Matt’s just totalled the floor, thrown up everywhere.”

After a solid three hours sleep we set about leaving for some damp Western Grit. What to do when there’s wet rock at the Roaches? “You know what Joe? Sifta’s is probably in!” After watching all the freshers (and Robin) being re-birthed from “the best route on Western Grit”, I decided to ignore the guide and go for a racked-up and helmeted ascent. The guides right - in fact “impeding your progress” might have been an understatement. 

We soon moved up to the Upper Tier where we setup pads on some of the boulders. Then it started drizzling, then raining, then pouring. Leaving behind a pad, we retreated to the bus. Joe lead (most of) us through a lovely walk to Lud’s Church before we returned to the Hut. 

After cooking “the best meets meal ever” (genuine quote) we had an early night in preparation for the perma-dry New Mills Tor on Sunday.

Arriving at the crag I immediately set my sights on a headpoint of Viaduct Wall (E2 5c). After a couple of attempts I find myself on the mantle. Pulling over the edge I lose balance and peel off sideways, twisting my ankle and giving Justine a heart attack: “Should we call someone?!” 

Robin had a good time bolt-to-bolting the incredibly sandbagged routes the other side of the bridge, which the were then top roped by almost everyone. Reuben made a solid ascent of (most of) Viaduct Crack (HVS 5b) while Olly, Matt and Hugo climbed the routes to the left. Shout out to Abi for coiling hundreds of meters of rope as “practice”; I’m sure Joe’s very grateful! A wet weekend, but a good one.

V12 Outdoor Gear Night

Thanks to Joe for organising the V12 night. Ran smoothly until we were kicked out by security. As always, if anyone has any questions about Gear (what to buy, when to buy etc.) feel free to chat to me or Joe at any time. 

Beginners Bouldering Sessions

Phoebe did an amazing job coaching at the first of 3 introductory bouldering sessions. They cover everything you need to take your bouldering to the next level! If you are interested keep an eye out as another course will be run after this one is finished!

Coming Up

Wednesday: Oakwood (Indoor Bouldering)

Thursday: Brit Rock Film Tour (Social)

Sunday: Climbing Films & Airplane (at Harry’s)

Hope everyone’s uni work is going well, but remember, retaking a year so you can climb more is always an option.